The harbour wall at Cemaes curves around a pocket of calm water where fishing boats rest at low tide, their hulls settled against the sand. Behind them, whitewashed cottages climb the hillside in a jumble of slate roofs and painted doors — and somewhere among them, your bed for the night.
Cemaes (pronounced “Kem-ice”) sits on Anglesey’s north coast, the most northerly village in Wales. It’s a working place rather than a resort, which is precisely its appeal. The harbour still lands crab and lobster. The village shop still knows everyone’s name. And the accommodation here reflects that character — no chain hotels, no holiday parks, just a handful of cottages and B&Bs run by people who chose this corner of the island and stayed.
Why stay in Cemaes?
Most visitors to Anglesey head for Beaumaris or Rhosneigr, leaving Cemaes quieter even in peak season. That suits a certain kind of traveller perfectly. From here you’re ten minutes’ walk to two beaches — the sheltered harbour beach and the wider sweep of Traeth Mawr to the east. The Anglesey Coastal Path runs directly through the village, connecting you to some of the island’s finest cliff walks. And Church Bay, with its seafood restaurant and rocky cove, is a short drive west.
The village itself has everything you need without anything you don’t. A Co-op for supplies. A chippy. Two pubs. A café or two that open when they feel like it. The pace here is dictated by tides and weather, not by itineraries.
Self-catering cottages
The traditional route for families and longer stays. Cemaes has a good stock of stone-built cottages, many with sea views from upstairs bedrooms. What you’ll typically find:
- Converted fishermen’s cottages in the village centre — compact, characterful, within stumbling distance of the Stag Inn
- Larger family houses on the lanes above the harbour — more space, parking, often garden access
- Modern apartments near the beach — fewer character points, but reliable fixtures and sea-facing balconies
Expect exposed stone walls, low doorways, and heating bills that reflect the age of the building. The trade-off is waking up in a house that’s stood against the Irish Sea for two centuries.
Self-catering in Cemaes works particularly well for walkers doing multi-day sections of the coastal path — you can leave a car here, catch a bus to your starting point, and walk home.
Browse Anglesey cottages on Snaptrip — their selection includes several Cemaes properties, and you can filter for dog-friendly, sea views, or specific check-in dates.
Village B&Bs and guesthouses
Cemaes isn’t overrun with B&Bs, but the ones here tend to be run by people who’ve been doing it long enough to get it right. Expect:
- Full Welsh breakfasts with local eggs and bacon from the Llangefni market
- Owners who’ll tell you where the seals haul out and which pub does the better pint
- Rooms that are clean and warm rather than Instagram-ready
The village scale means you’ll likely have a short walk to the harbour whatever you book. Most B&Bs don’t have on-site parking, but street parking in Cemaes is rarely a problem outside of the busiest summer weekends.
For more options across the island, search Anglesey B&Bs on Booking.com — you can filter by distance from Cemaes if you’re happy to drive.
Holiday parks and alternatives
Cemaes itself doesn’t have a holiday park, which contributes to its village feel. If you want a caravan or lodge with facilities, the nearest options are around Amlwch (10 minutes east) or further south towards Benllech.
For holiday rentals beyond traditional cottages, VRBO lists holiday homes across Anglesey — worth checking for larger properties that sleep six or more.
Practical notes
Booking windows: Cemaes isn’t a last-minute destination in summer. Cottages for peak weeks (school holidays, August) often book six months ahead. For B&Bs, a month’s notice usually suffices except during Anglesey’s bigger events.
Dogs: Many Cemaes cottages welcome dogs — the coastal path and beaches make it ideal dog-walking territory. Check individual listings; some have restrictions on numbers or breeds.
Getting around: You’ll want a car. The village is 25 minutes from Holyhead (for the ferry or A55), 40 minutes from Menai Bridge. The 62 bus connects Cemaes to Amlwch and Llangefni, but runs are infrequent.
Off-season: Cemaes is genuinely quiet from November to March. Some cottages close entirely; others offer significant discounts. The pubs stay open. The coastal path stays spectacular. Bring layers.
Best time to book
Summer (July–August): Book cottages by Easter for school holiday weeks. The village is at its busiest but still feels manageable.
Spring (April–June): Arguably the best balance — longer days, wildflowers on the cliffs, availability still reasonable. May half-term books faster than the weeks around it.
Autumn (September–October): Warm sea, empty beaches, easier bookings. Sunset walks along the cliffs without passing another soul.
Winter (November–February): For those who like their coastal villages raw and windswept. Storm-watching from a cottage window is an underrated pleasure.
Whatever you book, Cemaes rewards the traveller who comes without a packed itinerary. The harbour changes with every tide. The light on the headland shifts by the hour. There’s nothing to do here but walk, eat, sleep, and watch the sea — and that, it turns out, is enough.